Every August the garden reaches a tipping point where I cannot keep up with the tomatoes. They ripen faster than we can eat them fresh, they pile up on the counter, they blush and soften and make the kitchen smell like summer. This soup is the answer. It uses them generously, rewards them with low heat and time, and becomes something richer than the sum of its parts.
The tomatoes
Use whatever you have — a mix of varieties is actually better than all one type. I usually combine big beefsteaks for body, roma for sweetness, and a handful of cherry tomatoes for brightness. About three pounds total. Halve them, toss them in olive oil, salt, and a few whole unpeeled garlic cloves, and roast them cut-side up at 400°F for forty-five minutes until they're caramelised and collapsing. This step is not optional. It is everything.
Building the soup
In a heavy pot, soften a large onion in butter until jammy and golden. Add the roasted tomatoes, skins and all, squeeze out the roasted garlic from its papery skins, and add a cup of good chicken or vegetable stock. Simmer for twenty minutes, then blend until smooth and strain through a sieve for a velvety finish. Stir in a splash of cream, taste and adjust salt. Finish with fresh basil and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve with the cornbread from last week's recipe, obviously.