The blackberry canes along the back of the property produce for about three weeks in late summer, and every year I pick every berry I can reach, stain my fingers purple, and come home to make jam. This is my no-fuss small-batch method — nothing but blackberries and sugar, cooked until they tell me they're ready.
The ratio
Two pounds of fresh blackberries to one and a half cups of sugar and the juice of one lemon. That's it. Combine them in a wide heavy pot and let them sit for an hour so the sugar draws out the juice. You'll end up with a beautiful dark ruby pool before you've even turned on the heat.
The cook
Bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Then cook at a rolling boil, stirring frequently, for twenty to twenty-five minutes. The jam is ready when a spoonful dropped on a cold plate wrinkles when you push it — the old-fashioned way, and still the most reliable. If you prefer seedless jam, press it through a fine sieve before jarring. I don't — I like the texture and the wild quality of the seeds. Ladle into sterilised jars, seal, and leave them to cool. The sound of the lids popping as they seal is one of summer's best small satisfactions.